Catching up – Not running behind! And cup sizes..

Wow. I made it to March 13 before I was able to do a new blog post. I hope you guys are still there?

{It's still winter-ish out. But we have started spring inside}

{It’s still winter-ish out. But we have started spring inside – that’s Chocolate Beauty Chili in the white pot.}

I have been sick. And that made me stress out – and that made me more sick. SO I am now doing my daily meditations, trying not to feel behind schedule and practising taking time of in week-ends and evenings (while still making money). I even took up my knitting again. And I started a lot of seeds inside (gardening always relaxes me). So I just want to tell you that I’m OK but I also want to remind everyone that it is very important to let your body slow down and relax!

Enough about my health!

Let’s talk about sizing:

When I did that survey in January, one of the things a lot of you (actually 56.7 %!)  told me that you are most frustrated with in regards to sewing, is the process of fitting a pattern. Since there are so many different body types and so many different curves, you will always have to fit any pattern – even if it’s just adjusting the side seams, but I can do something to help you: I have been considering drafting some of my patterns for several bust sizes, to eliminate the need for FBA‘s for a lot of people. I was taught to draft for a B-cup size – and this is what most pattern companies do (those in Europe, anyway, I don’t know much about the American pattern drafting systems). Since I use a C cup myself, I always alter (or redraft) for that cup size anyway, and it occurred to me that you guys might be interested in buying a C-cup (or D cup) pattern that already had taken care of the FBA? Would you?

I can’t promise you perfect fit right out of the package (still might be shoulder slopes to fix, and side seams might also need adjusting..), but you would have a better starting point if you wear a C or a D cup.


{Sneak Peak of my next pattern, coming next week. It's a simple knit dress with back darts and neckline and sleeve edges. Do you have any ideas for the name?}

{Sneak Peak of my next pattern, coming next week. It’s a simple knit dress with back darts and neckline and sleeve edges. Do you have any ideas for the name?}

At first I wondered if I should just design for a C-cup – and change the sizing of my patterns all together. A lot of other independent pattern designers design for C-cups (it’s apparently the most common cup size now, unlike 20 years ago, when the B-cup was the most common size, so it makes sense) so it wouldn’t be revolutionary or anything. But then I thought: What about those people who wear A or B cups? They would have to do Small Bust Adjustments, then…

So now I’m wondering. Would it be worth my while, do you think, to offer patterns drafted for different cup sizes ?? (I’m thinking B and C for now. Would also consider a D cup pattern, even though that will be more complicated – I just need a fitting model of that size:-))


22 replies
  1. Blogless Anna says:

    Multi-sized cup options would be super. I’d be loving a D cup option. That dress looks fab. I particularly like the scoop neck. Maybe it’s a ‘Sophia Scoop Neck Knit Dress’ or a ‘Sienna Scoop Neck Knit Dress’ or Sarah, Samantha, Susan, Suzanne, Sally, Sophie, Saskia, Scarlett etc…

  2. Johanna@projects by me says:

    Yes, I’m still here! 🙂

    I think it’s a good idea to change from B-cup to C-cup as a standard, since that is the standard nowadays.

    About a name for the dress, how about Danielle dress or Dina dress? 🙂

  3. tini says:

    If you ever want to release a pattern for an H Cup, I would have somebody at hand for that.
    Since you are wearing red shoes in that picture I would vote for Dorothy 🙂

  4. Ann says:

    Please don’t change to a C cup. Colette does that and I have the most terrible time fitting their bodices, and I think lots of other people do too. Not to pick on them, they are a lovely company with great taste, but please don’t change!

  5. PendleStitches says:

    I do love the multi cup patterns but do recognise that you can’t please everyone.
    Having been fighting recurrent viruses as a result of running myself ragged I echo what you’re saying about taking care of yourself. I do hope you’re feeling better.

  6. Stephanie says:

    I think it’s a great idea! I always thought I was a B-cup myself but last week I went to buy undergarments, first quality ones ever and I got measured and turns out I’m a C-cup. Now I understand why most patterns were too large in my waist because I used to go up a size in order for it to fit. Never even considered needing an FBA.

    But I hate fiddling with the fit of a pattern so I would live it if it came in different cupsizes. I would even pay more just for the comfort of having less fittin issues 🙂

  7. Vicki Kate says:

    I think drafting for a C cup would be a great idea! As my bra is practically a postcode I know I’m always going to have to alter, but if C is now the ‘norm’ then I say go for that!
    The new dress looks gorgeous and the first name that popped into my head was Audrey (as in Hepburn) but that may be because I’m reading Breakfast at Tiffanys at the moment!

  8. Lizzy says:

    Well I’m the little voice sticking up for b cups and under. I’d been sad if you only drafted for c cups and beyond. Your patterns always fit me perfectly 🙂 and I’m a b cup.

  9. Sewing princess says:

    Glad to hear you feel better. I’m a b cup, but multicup is a great idea. What about Alexa for your pattern?

  10. silvia says:

    I hope you’re feeling better and focused on staying well!

    I love your idea of a C cup (since I’m one AND very selfish) and would adore not fudging a pattern too much. It would be an interesting experiment to release a good basic top in a C cup and see how it sells.

    Take care!

  11. Christina says:

    I vote for having a b cup option. I’m forever tweaking with patterns (adding length, taking in the waist, adding at the hip), and I’m particularly grateful that I don’t also have to do a bust adjustment.

  12. Sarah says:

    I’d love a multicup option. Whatever size you choose lots of people will have to adjust, but even if you sold two variants, or sold for $2 the extra bodice piece for a D cup, I would buy it!

    What about the ‘comfortable classic knit dress’?

  13. melanie says:

    Hi Maria, first of all, hope you’re in great health 🙂
    As for cup sizes, I think multi-sized is great but seam allowances included would be beyond super :p (I can try and ask lol …)

    And also, would you mind showing us how to alter the brigitte patterns so that it can have raglan sleeves? When you’re not busy that is of course …

    As for the name of the new pattern, how about “the knIT dress” get it? The “IT” dress … The “knIT” dress lol okay that was lame …

  14. Amanda says:

    In theory multi-cup sounds awesome. But, as I’m an A cup, it rarely works out well for me anyway. Also, while cup options help – I think many folks simply have unreal expectations for patterns. I mean, every body is different. So, most folks will have to tweak.

  15. Mary Sarah says:

    Hi Maria,
    I’m glad you’re feeling better. You’re right. You have to take care of yourself or nothing gets done. Health first!
    I vote for different cup sizes in patterns because I think it would help a lot of people. The B cup works great for me though, so I wouldn’t want to lose that. I understand patterns need to be adjusted because we’re all different. I just have a hard time taking the adjustment from me to the pattern. I’m getting better at it. I actually made a pair of pants fit fairly well. I need to tweak it a little to make a better fit, but overall, I’m happy with them.

  16. mariadenmark says:

    Thank you so much for all your kind and interesting comments!
    I’m thinking to keep drafting for B cups and then, when appropriate, also for some patterns have the option of C or D cups.

    And thank you for all the name suggestions! You have so many great ideas.

  17. Heidi says:

    I vote for the B cup, but I think that offering both B and C is a great idea. I’ve had problems trying to fit the Colette patterns. Would it be possible to include instructions or a link to a resource in the patterns
    for those who would need to adjust for A or D sizes and beyond?


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